Skincare: Moisturiser Basics: Humectants vs Emollients vs Occlusives

Moisturiser is one of the most misunderstood skincare products. Many people think it’s only for dry skin, or that it “makes you oily.” In reality, a good moisturiser supports your skin barrier, reduces irritation, and helps your skin function properly—whether your skin is dry, oily, or somewhere in between.

The key is understanding the three main categories of moisturising ingredients: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Most moisturisers use a mix of all three, but knowing what each does helps you pick the right formula for your skin and climate.

1) Humectants: the water magnets

Humectants are ingredients that draw water into the skin, either from deeper layers of skin or from the environment. Think of them like sponges—they help hydrate by increasing water content in the outermost layer (the stratum corneum).

Common humectants include:

• Glycerin

• Hyaluronic acid

• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)

• Urea

• Aloe vera

• Sodium PCA

Humectants are great for dehydrated skin (skin that feels tight but may still be oily). One important tip: humectants work best when applied on slightly damp skin, then sealed in with a moisturiser that also contains emollients or occlusives. On their own, in very dry air, humectants can sometimes leave skin feeling drier because they may pull water from deeper layers if there isn’t enough humidity.

2) Emollients: the smoothers and softeners

Emollients improve the feel of your skin by filling in tiny cracks between skin cells. They don’t “add water” in the same way humectants do, but they make skin softer, more flexible, and less rough. If your skin feels flaky, textured, or irritated, emollients are often the missing piece.

Common emollients include:

• Ceramides

• Squalane

• Fatty acids (like linoleic acid)

• Cholesterol

• Shea butter

• Plant oils (jojoba, sunflower, etc.)

Barrier-repair moisturisers often focus heavily on emollients like ceramides and fatty acids because they help reinforce the skin’s protective layer. For oily or acne-prone skin, lighter emollients (like squalane) usually feel better than heavy butters.

3) Occlusives: the seal that locks it in

Occlusives sit on top of the skin and reduce water loss (called transepidermal water loss). They’re like a “lid” that keeps hydration from evaporating. Occlusives are especially helpful for very dry skin, eczema-prone skin, or when your barrier is damaged.

Common occlusives include:

• Petrolatum (petroleum jelly)

• Dimethicone

• Mineral oil

• Lanolin

• Beeswax

Occlusives can feel heavy, especially in humid climates, but they can be a game-changer at night or on dry patches. Some people use an occlusive step as “slugging” (a thin layer over moisturiser) to help prevent overnight dryness—though acne-prone skin should patch test first.

How to choose the right moisturiser

• Dehydrated skin: humectants + light emollients

• Dry or compromised barrier: humectants + rich emollients + some occlusives

• Oily skin: humectants + lightweight emollients (gel-cream textures)

• Sensitive skin: fragrance-free, simple formulas with ceramides and panthenol

Moisturising isn’t just about “adding cream.” It’s about balancing water + softness + protection. Once you understand humectants, emollients, and occlusives, choosing a moisturiser becomes less of a guess—and your skin will usually feel calmer, smoother, and more resilient.